Mourning jewelry has appeared in various forms throughout
history, but it held an especially long streak of popularity from the 16th
to 19th centuries. In the 16th century, mourning jewelry
trended toward images of memento mori (such as skulls or skeletons) or locks of
the deceased’s hair held in a locket. In the 17th century, miniature
portraits of the deceased became a common theme, with a surge after the
execution of King Charles I, whose supporters wore his image. The Georgian era
(1714-1830) saw a turn away from portraits of a dead loved one toward romantic
depictions of grieving women, often accompanied by imagery such as tombstones, urns,
and weeping willows. The names or initials of the dead and sentimental sayings
about eternal love or eternal life might also appear. Hair, once confined to a
locket, began to take a more front-and-center role, woven and coiled into
decorative patterns, a fashion that would continue to flourish in the Victorian
era (1837 – 1901). Queen Victoria, perhaps the most famous wearer of mourning
jewelry, popularized all-black mourning attire, spreading the use of enamel,
jet, onyx, and other black materials in jewelry.
One of our latest finds at Prather Beeland is this gorgeous
late Georgian mourning ring. Mounted in a black and gold setting, the miniature
depicts a woman in neoclassical robes and an urn. The ring’s back features two
sets of initials, perhaps of a husband and wife. A beautiful piece for a
romantic’s collection!
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